Legs - A&A leg assembly
As I am attempting to keep the budget low, I decided the aluminium legs were just too costly, and when I looked at the various components that
make up the leg, in aluminium it quickly mounts up. The leg consists of the main long leg piece (see picture 2 below). The there is the ankle, and then there's the horseshoes, the cylinders,
beefy ankle, booster cover, and the buttons and components that fit into the booster
cover and the horseshoes. So when purchasing an aluminium leg, you have to then add in ankles, and horseshoes, shim etc, and the cost quickly escalates. So the choice was wooden or something else. I had purchased the
wooden frame from Thomas and he had offered CNC wooden legs,
but again these were missing ankles and then I had the middle leg to do as well. Also wooden legs are mighty heavy and hard to hide the grain,
postage cost from the US was going to be a killer. So the plastic A&A legs seemed the best choice, and
they come with ankles, middle leg, and horse shoes (although the horse shoes are a separate purchased piece), and most importantly strong and within the budget.
The A&A legs come as a flatpack "kit" of plastic pieces of about 1cm thick plastic layers. The idea being you
build up the leg to the full thickness adding each piece on top of each other. The
legs are in black plastic, and horse shoes and ankles in white. The legs are built up in layers (as in the diagram above).
I found there was an additional quite thin piece which has been apparently
included as all the layers didn't quite build up to the full leg thickness,
so isn't in the assembly plan but, I added this as well.
The picture opposite is one of the layered leg pieces. One of the layers also contains a "cut out", this will sit in the middle of two leg pieces and so allows any cables to control the feet motors
to be placed inside the leg. All in all an ideal kit. I first "dry" assembled the legs pieces, so I was familiar
with how the layers fitted together and then decided to use zap -a gap super glue. This super glue I used isn't
instantaneous but will allow some movement before imediately hardening,
so I felt this was perfect for a solid leg, and as others had mentioned
that dropping the legs or blows caused the legs layers to split, and this zap a gap
is super strong.
Before making this, I had made a Robbie u47 submarine. This was a R/C diving submarie, and i used Zap a gap glue in the construction. The boat after all had to dive, and
i didn't want it coming apart and losing it. I laso used the type that has a few seconds before going off. So its super glue but with a delay.
this was perfect for the submarine, as super glue immediately bonds, this alows you to aling the parts and any tiny gaps it will fill, unlike superglue
where if the parts don't exacly match it can't bond. I fond this perfect for the A&A parts.
For added rigidity I have heard, although I had built my legs by then, you can drill the plastic and then use drywall screws (the type that will self tap) to screw the leg pieces
together. I didn't, because I hadn't heard of that, and now thinking about it how would I cover the screw holes ? I'm covering the edges with body filler but not the surfaces.
I am still happy zap a gap will hold the legs.
To assist in keeping the leg pieces aligned there are holes drilled through each leg layer. I found that several smaller screwdriver shafts,
I had were a perfect diameter
for the drilled holes, and would act as guides, keeping the layers in
alignment, rather than trying to keep the edges of the leg layers in alignment. I tested this with the
the layers before adding glue and it was ideal.
I took the bottom layer and then spread the zap a gap glue on the layer and then with the next layer placed this on top with the screwdrivers inserted in holes at the top and sides of the legs.
I then used my large spring clamps to hold the two layers together.
The glue sets very quickly and I was able to remove the clamps, shortly after. I was also careful to ensure that I didn't add glue close to the holes. so I didn't get my screwdriver glued to the legs.
I then added the next layer using the screwdrivers again as a guide,
building up the layers, to a completed leg.
Piece numbered 10 is the outermost. Going from inner to outer I put the thin strip at number 5 with piece
10 the 8th and outer piece. Don't know if this is right, but its what worked for me.
I also checked that the key holes on piece number 10 has appropriate space behind,
as this is how the booster covers are attached.
It was just a repeat process for the other leg. The ankles also come in layers, and in white plastic, and I built up these layers again using
the screwdrivers as a guide and clamping the layers to form the ankle. There is also an ankle plate that fits on the leg and above the ankle.
This MUST be added before bonding the ankle, otherwise your stuck
with no way to put the ankle plate on.
The top of the ankle, isn't flat but contains a "slot", where one of the layers is slightly shorter, and on the bottom of the leg is a layer that fits into the ankle slot, ensuring a tight
fit between the leg and ankle. So as I built the ankle layers, I checked that the ankle slot would fit onto the bottom of the leg before glueing. I didn't find any tolerance issues and the
ankle fitted prefectly. Once I was happy I completed the ankle and then added glue to the ankle and push the ankle onto the bottom of the leg. It may be possble to not have to glue the ankle in position
but I opted to have a permanent bond between ankle and leg.
Poo doo - I found later you can bolt the ankle to the leg bottom
I used the 2 part Car Body filler. This is the standard filler you would use for repairing a dent in the metal wing of your car.
It works well on plastic or metal. Its in two parts the hardner is a pea size to golfball size expoxy. The hardner is a different colour
so you can see no streaks and its mixed in. Make sure you use the correct measurements, as i used too little hardner and it just
went crumbly, like pastry and i had to take it all off, and start again.
Once both legs were completed, the joins between each leg part were very obvious. The leg kit has wide strips supplied with the legs to add over the layered joints, however, I decided
to use plastic car body filler (isopon) to spread over the edges and then to sand this smooth. The problem I had was the layers
weren't perfectly aligned and so even if
I added the strip it wouldn't fit smoothly, so the better option was to use filler. I then smoothed the filler over the outside of the legs and then once dry sanded it
smooth using 800 grit wet and dry paper.
The picture shows the filler, after sanding. The plate just below the shoulder is the ankle plate. It's possible to
slide this plate up and down.
The next stage to apply a primer coat, so I can see any flaws in the filler. A bit more sanding, more primer and then finally
a coat of white rustoleum satin
Horseshoe pieces; these fit on the top of the leg piece, and again are provided in a number of layers. Here you can see all the pieces, before I glued them together.
Again I used the screwdriver through the holes to provide alignment and then zap a gap, using clamps to clamp each layered pieces until dry. The horse shoes
consist of various widths, so it is important to use the screwdriver technique for alignment. This is because the inside of the horseshoe provide a staggered effect, and although the
outside of the horseshoes are aligned the insides aren't. In addition the horseshoes have 3 slots, 2 square and one rectangular, to accomodate the buttons in the
square holes and the longer piece in the rectangular slot. This means the right side and left side are slightly different, as the buttons must be in the same place, on each leg. The accepted
position seems to be with the buttons at the front of the legs.
This is the plan of the horseshow fitting. You assemble part 14 at the bottom and each part is stamped. Part 13 is a shim, which is slightly smaller and fits between the leg and horseshoe. You
will notice this is aluminium in colour if you look at any leg reference shots. All the parts are stamped apart for the final outside piece, as this face needs to be smooth. Don't do what I did and assemble the
inner pieces 16, 17, 16, 17 first and then add the outside pieces. This worked fine for one side but when I went to assemble to other the staggering effect was gone and instead of short, long, short, long short, long
giving the staggering effect I got short, short, long, short, long, long ! Doh !
This is the completed horseshoe all glued and next I will add the filler and sand this smooth. I'm not using the supplied shim piece 13 but bought an aluminium shim instead and this will fit
between the leg and horseshoe rather than painting the plastic shim
Having completed the legs, the next stage is adding the beefy ankles. I wanted to have all the white components in place prior to painting with
Rustoleum White satin. The A&A kit comes with plastic pieces to assemble the Ankle and the quarter moon piece that goes below the ankle cylinder, but its a curved piece and has to be assembled, and
I thought a better and more substantial alternative to both pieces was to buy these from resin parts. There are mounting holes in the
ankles for these but I decided to glue these in place and then with a bit of filler and then primer and rustoleum it would look as if it was manufactured as one piece.
Before I could put the beefy ankles in place I needed to have all the components that fit on the ankle ready. These are
the ankle cylinder, the wedge that sits on the top of the cylinder, the quarter moon piece which holds the cylinder. The cylinder needed a bit of work removing the resin sprues.
These are the pieces where the resin was poured, and the back of the cylinder fits flat to the ankle, so these parts had to be cut off and then sanded flat.
You can see these sprues in the picture opposite. The back of the cylinder needs to be flat, to fit on the ankle.
I took a small junior hacksaw and tried to saw off the sprues, but there wasn't enough room to get a flat cut with the saw blade, so I use my
acro saw, that I used on the skin panels, and sawed through leaving only a small protrusion. I then cut
the other pieces off and using my mouse sander with medium
sanding pad I sanded the back of the cylinder flat. I also found I had to sand a bit of the edges of the cylinder so that it would fit
flush on the ankle.
I took the ankle parts: ankle cylinder, the wedge that sits on the top of the cylinder, the quarter moon piece which holds the cylinder.
So I checked the positioning and when happy with the fit I used my
trusty zap a gap glue, and glued this to the ankle. I wanted to ensure the ankle bracelet fitted seemlessly to the top of the beefy ankle piece, so I put the
bracelet in position and then before the glue went off positioned the beeky ankle in place butting up against the bracelet plate.
There was a small gap (you can see here) between the resin beefy ankle edge and the A&A ankle, so I added some filler and sanded this.
Crumbs, the amount of work and painting and sanding and re sanding and re painting was enormous. As the legs are formed from separate layers I used body filler
to make the edges and surfaces even. This was a lot of sanding to ensure the surface was smooth. I used the Rustoleum white satin paint (available from Homebase) to paint the legs and horseshoes.
But used the plastic primer first. I did have halfords grey primer, which I used on the skins and panels, but as the legs are plastic I opted for the
Rustoleum plastic primer just to be sure of a good bond. I must have sprayed this on and sanded due to filler imperfections
and then sprayed at least 6 times, but eventually I did get to the point where
its not 100% perfect but only I will notice.
My other issue was the ankle bracelet, every time it got white paint on it or if I masked it, taking masking off took off the aluminium paint, and I had to start again. I had big big problems with
masking and painting and peeling.
Here is a shot of the peeling problems I had. My masking just took off the paint.
With the ankle bracelets I ended up using folderd paper covering which was then selotaped over. So that only thing touching the
ankle bracelet was the paper. I then painted the legs in 2 stages. First the bottom half, moving the ankle bracelet up to the top.
Then painting the top of the leg, moving the ankle bracelet
to the bottom.
Perhaps I should not have glued the bottom of the leg in place, but at the time I didn't think that far. I realised
once the lower part was glued I couldn't replace the ankle bracelet, but thought
I could mask that off easily enough. The other issue I had with the bracelet was its a tight fit (which it needs to be) so when I did slide it up and then down to paint the legs in
2 parts it pulled the paint off on the sides of the legs so I had to sand and repaint again.
The picture below shows the peeling on the ankle detail. As you can see the edges are ok but I need to remove all the
paint otherwise the edges of this old paint will show.
I also had major problems with the booster covers. These are in resin, and one cover was more or less perfect. The other, when it came to masking and painting the
aluminium details caused major headaches. I applied the primer (same primer used for the skins) and then added the hyper blue and left
to dry. When I then masked off the lower blue and added the
aluminim detail and removed the masking the paint just lifted off. I had followed the instructions on resin part care, with washing to remove any deposits and adding primer, but masking just took the paint right off.
I must have painted these boosters and re-sanded 8 times. Eventually I took to sanding the resin with 600 wet and dry to get a better key for the primer, and then I used cardboard cutouts as masks. These did allow a lot of
overspray which crept aroud the corners of the cardboard masks, but at least when the cardboard masks were removed it did leave some
overspray which I then was able to fill in the aluminium with a small paint brush. So I ended up painting entire,
bottoms aluminium, then adding masks and blue paint, and painting over the blue with aluminium, and I'm now very happy with the results.
I suppose its a heck of a lot easier with aluminium parts !
With the legs fully painted and dried, I used the pre drilled holes in the legs to screw in some posts that will
hold the cylinder in place. I drilled corresponding holes in the back of the cylinder and then pushed the cylinder into place.
I cleaned the resin cylinders using washing up liquid and water, and then once dried, I cleaned with acetone, to ensure a clean surface.
I then painted the cylinders with primer and left them to dry overnight.
Finally I painted the cylinder with Rustolleum Metallic silver.
The picture opposite shows the papermasking to then paint the centre Hypo Blue.
Following my past problems with masking tape pulling off the paint, I just cut some strips (about 3 inches wide) from standard A4 paper.
I lined up the paper edge with the groove on the cylinder and pulled the paper tight. I then used selotape only on the paper
and only on the back of the non painted resin cylinder,
to hold the paper masking in place. I repeated this on the other end. I then used the BMW Hypo Blue spray to paint the inner piece blue.
I left this to dry overnight and then removed the paper
in the morning. This gave a perfect result, and as no seleotape had touched the paintwork, no paint was removed.
Finally I used the clear coat (that comes with the BMW Hypo Blue ) to spray the completed cylinder.
The cylinder is held by the 2 pins and the edges. Its a tight push fit.
I did this before I added the half moons and the painting, so that once the bottom half moons were glued in place and painted, the cylinder could then
be added later.
This is the completed ankle, with the half moon added. I had to add some filler, then prime and paint the completed ankle.
Then it was just a matter of pushing on the completed cylinder and wedge. Looks great !
The leg has 3 parts. The Inner leg, a small aluminium shim and then the outer horseshoe. I need to fit the aluminium shim to the top of the
inner leg. The aluminuim shim has keyways to allow the outer horse shoe to attach to the leg, but first I need to attach the shim.
I drilled and tapped four M4 holes on the leg. As the leg is plastic this was fairly easy. The aluminium shim will then be screwed to the leg.
I took this aluminium spacer between the leg and horseshoe and countersunk four holes. I then fitted the
aluminium spacer and screwed in the four M4 countersunk M4 screws, to hold the plate in place.
The aluminium shim contains four key holes in the aluminium plate and larger holes behined these key holes that will allow the
corrsponding bolts on the horseshoe to slot into position.
I drilled and tapped four holes in the rear of the horseshoe, and fitted M4 bolts, but not screwed fully home but just the width of
the aluminum shim proud of the surface. Then I can slot in the horseshoe into the coresponding key holes in the shim.
The picture shows the rear of the horse shoe. Here I drilled and tapped four corresponding M4 holes. I then screwed in four hex head M4 bolts.
Its these bolts that will fit in the key way in the aluminium shim, thus holding the horse shoe to the leg.
Here you can see how the horseshoe just clips on and off
For the shoulder buttons and hydraulics, I planned to hold these in place with screws, so that if I went with aluminium parts in the future, I could
easily remove the resin ones.
So I test placed these parts on the shoulder horseshoe to get the positioning. I then
removed them and marked the hole for drilling. For the button it was just ensuring the button was centrally positioned.
I then drilled and countersunk a hole in the rear of the horseshoe for my M3 screw, directly behind the button. Then
I placed the button in position and marked where the back of the button should be drilled. I then removed
the button and drilled the hole in the rear, and tapped the hole for M3 screw.
The button is then held in place with this screw.
I repeated the process for the long Hydraulics pieces, with two holes and two screws at the top and bottom to hold this
The booster cover has a similar arrangement. I have M4 bolts fitted into the rear of the booster cover and corresponding key holes
in the leg. So the booster cover slots into these leg using the key holes in the leg. The horseshoe then fits into the slots and pushes down into the key holes in the spacer, completing the top of the leg
Since building the R2 I have had a few questions. How heavy is the droid with wood and aluminium dome. Yes its heavy, and yes the A&A legs are strong enough. Using A&A legs makes it
lighter than aluminium, but the legs once all glued are very very solid, and I'd be happy to take them into battle even. I have
the legs on my outdoor patio and they never split.
I then added the under leg and ankle details. I thought about some neat method of screws or push fit, but in the end I simply used the silicone to fit these to the leg
I am building my droid in the attic, and so I have to get the bloomin thing up and down the stairs to the attic. With the legs on its too heavy
and bulky to move. But with no dome and no legs its heavy but not heavy enough not to lift it, with batteries, skin etc.
My legs bolt on, so its easy enough now with the spacers and the leg to body hub to unbolt and bolt back on. Its not easy or quick, but with care it works.
The A&A leg comes with the assembly for the middle leg. However it has the ankle part and then a constructed box.
Presumably this box and ankle
arrangement is for some other type of frame, but didn't suit my wood frame.
If you look at the parts in the picture, you can see the bottom 8 parts. The 4 middle parts are glued together
and then the remaining pieces are glued on the outside.
Once complete this the fits into the Box.
I just couldn't figure how this box would fit to a wood frame. So I wanted a more
conventional 'chair leg' type construction.
The A&A middle leg ankle is constructed from several layers. So the top forms a slot. I just bought a block of wood the same
width as the centre A&A leg section. The added two smaller side pieces, using wood glue to glue the side the the centre.
This allowed the A&A top ankle to slot into the wood piece I had made.
I wasn't convinced this alone would hold the ankle in position. So I decided to fit two wooden dowels in the top of the
A&A ankle. I drilled two holes in the top of the ankle and two opposing holes in the bottom of the wooden leg.
This provided the strength to the joint between A&A ankle and wood. I then used slow cure araldite to glue the wood to the plastic
ankle and around the dowels, and considering there's a
lot of weight and force acting on this joint it should then hold well.
I then used my car body repair filler (isopon) to smooth out the join and the plastic pieces of the
A&A middle leg.
I used my trusty mouse sander and fine sandpaper to provide a smooth surface to the car filler. Then using slow cure Araldite I attached the "beefy ankle" and
lower cylinder holder to the bottom of the leg. I then repeated this on the other side. I had to use a course grade of sandpaper to make the cylinder
holder fit the curvature of the A&A middle ankle. I then used a bit more isopon car filler to smooth out those gaps.
As you can see the cylinder holders I had are either too long, or the A&A middle leg bottom is too short. I believe that possibly the cylinder holders for the center leg are different to those on the other legs.
So I had to sand these to the same size and curvature .
The beefy ankles and the cylinder holders are for the outer legs, so didn't quite fit. As it seems difficult to get the resin parts, I decided I'd
have to make these fit and start my favourite task - sanding !!!
Crikey why is so much of this project sanding, I should have shares in sandpaper. So I used my mouse sander to take the bulk of the parts down to size and then
with 60 grit paper sanded it into the curves, and then moved to 600 and then 1200 to sand down the fine sanding lines to get a smooth finish. I took some primer
and sprayed the legs to highlight and detailed faults, and then went to work with some putty used for plsstic model planes, to fill in any gaps.
Once sanded smooth, the bottom leg, and resin parts were primed, and then painted Rustolleum Satin white and left to dry.
As you can see the cylinder holders here are now the same size and curvature as the A&A middle leg piece.
The middle leg is held in position with 2 steel angle pieces, set on two blocks of wood. The wood blocks are 30mm thick.
The blocks are required to lift the steel mounting pieces off the bottom, so as to accomodate the side wedges, which will
protrude into the inner body.
I cut the excess off the middle leg (you can see the leg many pictures above is quite long and now cut shorter). Then using the leg, placed the two steel pices against the leg to get the positioning.
The steel angle pieces are drilled at each end and then drilled through the wood support blocks. Its vitally
important to drill the holes in the blocks exactly vertical so I used my drill press to drill these holes.
The blocks and steel are then mounted in place exactly in the middle of the bottom of R2
The wood blocks and steel are bolted in position.
The legs (outer and inner) should all be the same length. I used a few books to support the R2 body. I then
fitteld the pipe and legs over the pipe hanging vertically down. The middle leg was then
positioned exactly in the centre and adjusted vertically to be the same length as outer.
I then drilled two holes through the steel and into the middle leg, to hold this in postion with two M8 bolts. The picture is
a bit dark, but you can just see in the shadow the middle leg protruding down.
The A&A leg comes with the parts for the leg to body hub. This consists of 3 separate circular disks, in much the same way as the legs consist
of multiple layers, the idea being these are
fitted together to form one thicker layer.
The disks have smaller M6 size holes and then outer holes that match up to the ones in the top of the legs, which are used to bolt the leg to the body.
I used M6 bolts to then hold and centre the disks
so that they are a complete one hub just less then an inch (25mm) thick.
Four Screwed rods and bolts will then be used to bolt the legs and hub to the body.
Update - scroll down, to alternative. I found the A&A hubs (in pic opposite) weren't the best and so used an aluminium hub
The legs will bolt to the body using four 20mm long (8 inch) screwed rods and nuts. I need to therefore position the legs at the 36 degree angle and then drill holes in
the body for these screwed rods. I decided to concentrate on getting one leg correctly fitted at 36 degrees and then with the middle leg fitted and R2 standing, I would
place the 2nd leg and match the positioning exactly with the first already fitted leg. That way I could be sure the legs were exactly the same.
I placed two screwed rods though the leg, and bolted the front to the leg and back to the hub to hold the hub in place to the leg. This
then left two holes free. The idea being I could rotate the leg to the correct 36 degree angle and then mark the position of the holes to be drilled in the body
to hold the leg. When I had these two rods bolted in place this should be
enough to hold the
hub and allow the yet to be drilled two holes free to then place a pencil down through the holes to mark the hole
position on the wood frame.
Here I have the hub attached using the two of the four screwed rods and nuts. You can see the inner two M6 bots and nuts that hold the
three disks that form the hub. I plan to glue these eventually and cover with aluminium tape. This should give the impression of an
aluminium hub. I did think of painting them, but I could never get the sheen of aluminium, so the tape will suffice.
With the hub attached to the leg I will mount the hub and leg to the body using a pipe through the center hole. I can then rotate the
leg about that center pipe.
I now need to drill the center hole in the body for the pipe. I used the other hub which I had yet to fit to the other leg, to get the position of the center hole.
To ensure the hole was centered I took a 25mm wood drill bit and positioned the leg to body hub in position. I then drilled the center hole.
I then did the same on the other side and fitted a
25mm dia pipe through the hole
and fitted a 25mm pipe through the hole and slid the hub through this pipe. I could then rotate the hub 36 degrees,
and make the position of the leg fixing holes, so that when the legs are
attached they are at the correct tilt. I plan to then attach one leg and bolt it into position.
The picture shows 2 of the holes drilled, so this is a picture I actually took after I had drilled the mounting holes, above pictures
single center hole.
The cross marks the centre and with front of R2 to the right the bottom line is at 36 degrees, (note some say 38 degrees but whats 2 degrees)
which I marked with a protractor.
I would then fit the pipe and then the leg.
The problem now is how to know the leg is rotated 36 degrees ?
If I could mark the pipe with the 36 degrees, I could fit the leg, then rotate the leg 36 degrees and mark the position.
I tried to mark the pipe with a pen, but it was too hard to see, so I put two pieces of tape 36
degrees apart, using the lines I marked. (again the two holes are beause I took this picture illustrating how
I did this after I drilled the holes).
I then lifted and fitted the leg onto the pipe. I don't know if you can see but firstly, with the leg directly handing down I
made a small mark on the black inner ring, to get the position of exactly 12 o'clock.
Then carefully keeping the pipe fixed, I slowly rotatated the leg with the dot moving clockwise, until it lined up with the 2nd tape on the pipe, and
this meant the leg was rotated the required 36 degrees.
I then used a pen placed through the two free holes to mark the position of where the holes should be.
I then removed the leg and using the two marks drilled the two holes. I then refitted the leg and fitted the two screwed rods through the leg and the
holes I drilled in the frame. I added nuts on the rods and held the leg in position. This looked perfect.
I removed the leg and the other two screwed rods and refitted the leg marking the other two holes, which I then drilled.
I repeated the same thing on the other side - but checking before drilling that the already fitted leg was extended behind the body by the same amount. So if my
calculations were slightly out and I had got say 37 degrees, that other was the same. It turned out legs were perfect.
My only issue now is that the legs are bolted with a nut front and back. However, there is nothing stopping me tightening the bolts on the back, and
all this will do is draw the leg closer into the body. I really need some spacers behind the leg so I can tighten the legs.
I cut some 25mm copper pipe into approximately inch lengths and fitted this over the screwed rod, with washers
on either end. This allows me to tighten the nuts on the leg and on the frame to hold the leg securely.
Update - this didn't give me a sound join of the legs to body. Scroll down for my final solution
The feet arrived. These are made out of steel and have some oil to prevent them going rusty. I took some acetone, and
cleaned the feet, removing all the oil.
I turned the feet upsidedown and then sprayed the inside with the Halfords primer, ensuring all bare metal
surfaces are covered. One dry I then turned the feet over and sprayed the surface with Halfords primer. I then left for a week
to dry before spraying white.
As the feet need protection from rusting - the inside of the feet are also sprayed with grey primer.
You can also see space for connecting the top of the middle leg to the foot is restricted. I'll have to put two short bolts
on either end. See further down for how I managed to do this.
Once the primer was dry I painted the feet in satin White from Rustolleum. I had mixed results with Rustolleum, but the larger cans had a
slightly different nozzle and trigger mechanism, rather than the standard smaller cans 'press down' type. I needed a lot of white paint so these larger
cans suited my purpose and gave far far better smooth coverage.
I also painted the feet details including the half moon details. The feet details (the two small rhombous shapes at the feet edge and the bar along the top) were supplied by
JAG as part of the metal feet.
Note you can also see here the side of the foot, before the side plate is fitted. The feet have a side plate and then the feet details, such as half moon and
The feet consist of the main foot shell, and a side plate (see above middle foot shot without side plate fitted). This side plate fits onto the side of the foot and the feet details and half moon fit to this. The
side plate can therefore cover any holes, that you may need to drill and countersink in the feet to hold the foot motors or housing. The plate and foot shell
comes pre drilled and the feet details come with screws attached. So its simply a process of fitting the feet detail screws through the holes and then attaching the nuts
behind to hold the side plate and details in position. Very easy.
The half moon is from resin parts and needs to be mounted to the foot. Having positioned the plate and
foot details I placed the half moon in its final position and then through the pre drilled holes I marked the back of the half moon for the
I only intended to use the top most holes, as I felt two holes would be adequate.
I cut, with my hacksaw, the top off two screws, and drilled the rear of the half moon with 7mm deep and approprite diameter to hold the screw. I then drilled and tapped the
holes in the half moon and screwed in the cut screws. I then offered up the half moon to the plate passing the screws through the holes and added a nut behind to secure in place.
That was my feet complete.
I did the same for the inner foot (this only has the half moons and no other feet details)
I intend to eventually - when funds permit - to add feet motors, but for the moment I'm just leaving static, but with the option of adding motors at a later date. So
the next stage is to connect the feet and leg.
I checked that the bolt will fit through the hole in the bottom of the A&A leg and its spot on. I didn't need to open the hole
at all. I simply offered up the leg to the top of the foot and it fitted quite snugly. I then pushed the bolt through the hole into the leg and thats the leg connected.
I added a nut on the end and thats the foot connected.
The centre leg is complete with wedges, I just need to add the cylinders. The inner A&A leg comes with slotted keyholes to allow a cylinder to
be slotted into place
I drilled two holes in the back of the cylinder to accomodate two M6 bolts that will then slot into the slotted keyholes in the
bottom of the A&A centre leg. I then srilled and tapped the two holes and screwed in the two bolts. The cylinder then slots into position should I need to replace or
re paint the cylinders. The cylinders are same as the other leg and from resin parts.
For the inner leg, it wasn't as simple. There just isn't the space or (as in the other leg) a strategically placed hole in the foot
to push a bolt in place. The space at the top of the middle foot is limited. So I needed to add an M6 bolt either side of the leg. I obtained a
long nut which I then inserted into the leg hole and that the two bolts will fit either side to hold the inner foot in position.
I had to sand down the inner A&A leg slightly as it was a tight fit into the top of the inner leg, but after a few bits of sanding it fitted
perfectly. I then screwed in the bolts either side to keep the leg in position. I'm not sure how I'll ever remove this as once in place when I turn the bolt
the inner nut just rotates within the inner leg hole. However, can't see where I'll need to remove it anyhow, and with the inner leg being so short
and removable it should be ok to work on, anytime in the future.
With the legs complete its just a matter of attaching the legs. With me taking the hubs on and off the foil covering kept catching
and tore so I decided to 'bite the bullet' and purchase some leg to body hubs. James in Texas (aka COM8)
The COM-8 frame is often presented for purchase on the Astromech forum, and the frame is all aluminium but just too expensive, but I thought the hubs
would be perfect for me. So I purchased from James in Texas (aka COM8) the leg to body hubs to replace my A&A leg to body hubs.
I simply removed the old A&A foil covered hubs and used the COM8 hub and using the bolts I used to secure the leg added the hubs to the leg.
I didn't discard the A&A parts, but added this as my spacer.
So I have leg - alu hub - a&A hub - wood frame
So now I don't need my copper spacers and with this arrangement I have a very light joint from leg to frame.
I then connected the leg to the body as I had dome before and perfection - the leg is now in place and the new hub looks great.
Here you can see the Aluminium hub and the inner A&A hub. The inner A&A hub acts as a perfect spacer allowing the auuminium hub to fit perfectly.
I had to cut the top off the top of the A&A hub to allow it to fit in the wooden frame, but your frame may be slightly different, and you won't need to cut the hub.
I bought some resin hose fittings and sprayed these silver/aluminium. They looked the part, but when I tried to fit
them in the holes they were much much to big. I had the choice - the holes were wrong size, so drill them bigger, or file down the
In the end that was a lot of work, so I sourced some aluminium hose fittings. These worked a treat and fitted perfectly. Simply screw them in
couldn't be easier. So the resin parts are just wrong. Serves me right for buying on flea bay.
To fit the hose connections to the legs I needed to drill two holes in the legs. I used a hole cutter and drilled out the holes. The foot strips are already pre drilled
for the hose fittings so its just a matter of then connecting the hose fittings through the foot strip and then into the leg
It was a tight fit, but the hose fittings now hold the foot strip in place. I may once I have the hoses , use silicone to hold these
in postion, but for now the screwed fit will do.
I then took the longer foot strips and siliconed these to the middle leg front and back. Then the shorter foot strip, which is identical to the
front strip, but without the holes for the hose fittings and siliconed this to the back.
Both the middle and rear strips have holes in the legs that are covered over by the foor strip. This is a similar idea to the
dome panels, so that if I need to remove the foot strip, I can use a screwdriver pushing through the hole from behind to
remove the foot strip.
The battery box attaches to the side of the foot and has a keyhole cutting to accept screws on the side of the battery box. I placed the batterbox in position
and then using a very short pencil marked the hole position on the battery box.
I drilled and tapped two M4 holes and then screwed in two short M4 hex bolts.
I then connected the battery box in position on the side of the foot. If you look up a couple of pictures,
you can clearly see the side picture of the foot with thetwo key holes that allow the hex bolts to fit into.
With the hose fittings in place the hose just needes added. I got a length of hose from Mike Velcheck. He
supplies a length of hose which I then cut into 4 lengths using a pair of wire cutters.
I cut the hose into 4 equal lengths, and then I carefully squeezed the cut end so that it would fit
into the knurled hose fitting. It wasn't too difficult and easily fitted through and into the hose fitting.
I then fitted the hose knurled end in place.
I pushed the hose through the fitting and with the samm piece of a quarter of an inch I folded this over the back of the
threaded fitting, so that the hose would be held in place.
I then fitted the other 3 hoses in the same manner